What is ‘cosmeticorexia’, the condition that’s damaging your skin?

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What is cosmeticorexia, the condition that's damaging your skin?

Thanks for asking. 10 step skincare routines, anti-aging serums and wrinkle creams are increasingly becoming part of children's lives. This growing obsession with skincare and appearance, sometimes affecting children as young as 9 or 10, is known as cosmeticorexia. A combination of cosmetics and orexia, meaning appetite or desire. Why are we talking about this now? The trend has now caught the attention of Italy's Competition and Marketing Authority, AGCM, which launched two investigations on 27 March 2026, into several beauty brands suspected of encouraging children and teenagers to use products designed for adults through potentially misleading marketing. So what exactly is the AGCM investigating? One concern is the lack of warnings on products that have not been tested on minors. It is the first time a European or authority has directly addressed the issue.

The AGCM has also raised concerns about marketing aimed at very young audiences, particularly through micro-influencers. The strategy, it says, can encourage children to buy cosmetics compulsively. This is closely linked to the so-called Sephora Kids phenomenon, in which children and pre-teens film themselves unboxing beauty products, trying them out, and copying skincare routines seen on social media. But can these products actually damage your skin? Yes, particularly when they contain powerful active ingredients. Take retinol, for example. It speeds up cell renewal and can help reduce wrinkles in adults. But children's skin already renews itself rapidly, so there's little benefit to using it. Instead, it can cause irritation and even burns.

Dermatologist Gene Ayers speaking to the BBC has reported seeing more acne and eczema among young patients using these products. Psychologist Alberto Stefano has also linked cosmeticorexia to body dysmorphic disorder. He's observed anxiety in children as young as seven or eight, with some becoming so ashamed of their appearance that they avoid going to school. Social media comparisons, he says, can leave children feeling that they do not measure up. There are also specific rules governing cosmetics intended for children. For children under three, a specific safety assessment is required before products can be placed on the market.

Certain ingredients must be restricted when products are intended for children, and brands must provide clear instructions, including where relevant the maximum quantity that should be used. There you have it.

Now you know what cosmeticorexia is. In under three minutes, we answer your questions and help you understand the true meaning of the word. Find the trends, concepts and acronyms that are making headlines. Listen along and you really will know for sure.

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