Big Wave Surfer Nic Lamb on Training For Risk, Making Choices, The Ocean

Nic Lamb (0:00)

So these swells that we surf in these events, these are waves 40 to 60 to 80 foot tall, so that's like an eight story building, right? And the larger they are like that, the quicker they move. They look like they're breaking slow, but man, they are quick as quick can be. And I actually had a piece of technology on my board on this one session, it was like 20 foot, and it clocked me at like 35 miles an hour.

So essentially, we're going upwards 45 miles an hour. So these waves, again, they're moving that quick, so you have to, you're not matching 45 miles an hour, but they are moving very fast. So you only have so much time, right, to make the decision. Am I gonna go? Am I not gonna go? It's really quick.

And you know, since I've surfed a few waves in my career, there are times when, you know, that moment passes you up and you're, oh.

But luckily, there's always another wave, so trying to learn from that. But yeah, it can be scary. Like I said, like, I fear the ocean. I love it to death, but I also fear it because I've seen what it can do and I've seen the waves that it can create out in the water. And for anyone who hasn't seen any one of these large waves, just Google some of this stuff and it's just raw energy. It's so incredible to see. You'll be like, wow, I can't believe that stuff happens on planet Earth.

Michael Gervais (1:31)

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