Afternoon Sweet Tooth: The German Ritual of Coffee and Cake

Simon Mattacks (0:01)

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Simon Mattacks (1:41)

Café und Kuchen is a beloved tradition in Germany. Literally translated, it means coffee and cake. But as we'll soon discover, it's about so much more. How and when did this afternoon ritual originate? And what's the story behind traditional cakes like the Black Forest Gatto? These are some of the questions we'll be exploring tonight. Along the way, we'll gain a deeper understanding of why Germans have become so fond of this particular ritual. So, just relax and let your mind drift as we explore the sleepy history of Cafe & Kuchen.

Today, such items are sold in supermarkets, delighting customers around the world. They've also been made popular by German Christmas markets, which have arisen in cities in many different countries. In Germany itself, these kinds of desserts are still celebrated through the continued pastime of Kaffee und Kuchen. This is the ritual of taking coffee and cake, usually between the hours of three and five o'clock.

The roots of this custom can be traced as far back as the 17th century, when Germany began its love affair with coffee. The drink was already popular in the Islamic world. It had been served in Ottoman coffee houses since the 16th century. In Europe, the first coffee houses are thought to have opened in Italy and England around the mid-17th century. Word spread over the years, as European travelers discovered the delights of coffee. A few keen businessmen saw the drink's potential, and by the late 17th century, coffee houses began appearing all over the continent.

Germans got their first taste in 1673, in the northern city of Bremen. This was the perfect setting for the first German coffee house, as the city was reputed to be a hub of culture. Over the next 50 years, more coffee houses would be established, with doors opening from Hamburg to Stuttgart. By 1721, the trend had reached Berlin, then the capital of Prussia, which welcomed its very first coffee house. Initially it was a pastime enjoyed by the wealthy, as most could not afford to frequent such a place. Women too were often excluded, though some rich ladies might partake in a private coffee visit in the back room of a shop. And certainly, they enjoyed the drink at home. As had been the case in the Islamic world, coffee culture was associated with intellectualism and politics. Caffeine seemed to stimulate discussion and debate, and the coffee house became the setting for important conversations. To the elite, this was troubling, a risk to social order. Even more so as the habit spread throughout society.

By the late 18th century, it had been embraced by the lower classes, who would commonly keep a source man of coffee on the stove. They drank it like soup, adding milk and sugar. As coffee consumption increased, sales of alcohol dropped. King Frederick II of Prussia reacted by imposing a luxury tax on coffee. It became so expensive that a seamstress would need to work an entire day just to afford a single cup. Import were also restricted, and the Prussian state was given the monopoly on trade. During this time, it became illegal to roast coffee beans at home, except for select groups such as the nobility and members of the clergy. However, people found a way, as they so often do, with coffee beans smuggled and sold on the black market.